A useful tool when conditions are right
What is the calling card
(pun intended) of the weak no-limit hold'em player? My answer would be letting
the opponent draw cheaply - or for free - and then paying off big-time when the
opponent gets lucky. Many people would agree with this, including a lot of poker
writers. Generally, slow-playing pocket aces gets chastised in print, to the
extent that slow-players of this hand often are derided in poker literature. I
admit that I myself do not do a lot of slow-playing, but there is a big
difference between infrequent and never. My opinion is, there are some spots in
which slow-playing aces is at least a viable alternative to consider, and there
are a few situations in which it may well be the superior play.
Aces can be a
candidate for slow-playing both before and after the flop. There is a sound
technical reason for this. Aces, being a pair of the highest-ranking card,
cannot encounter an overcard, so they are outdrawn less often than any other
hand preflop, and also are not very easy to outrun after the flop. Failing to
bet or raise is therefore not penalized as often as with other pocket pairs. I
will discuss preflop play in this column.
Few people slow-play aces when someone has already entered the pot in front of
them. The most frequent time that people limp in with aces is when they are the
opener, especially when under the gun. Limping in when opening from early
position is so common that opponents will be wary of you when you just call from
up front. I open-limp with aces less often than I open-raise, but am still prone
to using this play. It fits my general poker philosophy of varying how I play
the nuts. I hardly ever limp with aces if someone is already in the pot. I am
not above limping when I am the first player in even when having late position.
You may recall a hand with which I opened from the button in the 2006 World
Series of Poker with a very short stack. Neither blind raised, yet I still
managed to triple up on the hand. I also use this play on occasion when in the
small blind. Open-limping from the small blind with aces and then reraising the
big blind if he gets frisky is a good way to let the big blind know that a limp
is not a white flag that gives him a license to steal. One play I have seen that
I never use - and think is idiotic - is failing to raise one or more limpers
when in the big blind. Deceptive, yes; profitable, no.
With pocket aces when facing a raise, the normal play is to reraise. Make sure
that your reraise is big enough. I like to at least triple the total bet; for
example, with $50-$100 blinds, if someone made it $300 to go, I would make the
total bet at least $900, and probably a little more. An even grand is a good
number. If I am out of position, as in one of the blinds, I would make it at
least four times the total bet (here, $1,200).
Do I ever slow-play aces
when facing a raise? Yes, but only if conditions are ideal. Here are all of the
criteria that must be met:
1. I am
likely to be heads up. It is dangerous to let even a single player see the flop
when you could have reraised; it is too risky to let multiple players in.
2. I have position on the preflop raiser. Then, I have a better chance of making
money. He probably will commit himself to the pot on the flop. If he checks and
I bet (I might check it back), he will not know if I have a real hand or am
trying to prey on the weakness he showed.
3. The opponent is aggressive enough to make a continuation bet. The main point
to slow-playing is to let your opponent retain the initiative on the flop, to
get his whole stack committed. But if he does not bet the flop unless he hits,
you are not making extra money often enough to justify the risk of slow-playing.
4. The money ratio of my stack size to the raise size has to be right. If the
money is shallow,
you probably
will get called if you reraise all in, so that is likely your most effective
action. For example, with $50-$100 blinds, if someone opens for $300 and all you
have is $1,000, you should move in and expect to get called. If the money is too
deep, you run the risk of losing a gigantic amount if he outflops your aces. I
think the ideal amount is enough to move all in on
a continuation bet without overbetting the pot size by more than a slight
amount. If you cannot get all in on the flop without making a
gigantic raise, don't slow-play. Let's use our $50-$100 blinds example. The
opponent open-raises for $300 and you call from the button with pocket aces.
There is now $750 in the pot. When the flop comes down, he makes a continuation
bet of $425. After your "call" (just hypothetical, to count the pot size the
proper way), the pot size is now $1,600. You would be pleased after the $300
call to have $1,400 to $2,000 remaining that would be used to move all in. This
means that you wanted to have $2,000 to $2,600 at the start of the hand, when
you faced that $300 open-raise. So, the approximate ideal amount is roughly six
to eight times the amount of the preflop raise to effectively use a slow-play.
My favorite situation to slow-play pocket aces preflop is when I have been
reraised by one of the blinds after I have made an open-raise. This reraise from
out of position is almost always kings, queens, or A-K, so I have both position
and confidence in reading where I stand on most of the flops. This is a gambling
situation to relish.
As you see, I believe that slow-playing pocket aces preflop, far from being a
no-no, is a useful tool when conditions are right. Besides being very effective
in certain situations, it provides a nice variety to your no-limit hold'em game,
giving it a certain amount of unpredictability that keeps the opposition off
balance.
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