Guest Columnist Les Kincaid
There are many classic wine and food pairings.
Zinfandel and slightly sweet, spicy barbecue is one
of them. Zinfandel's fruity character, with its
hints of spice, pepper and moderate tannins, is
especially complementary to barbecue and other
tomato-based sauces.

Zinfandel is ripe and generally dark fruited, these
Zins are a good partner for melting cheeses like
cheddar and provolone. Zinfandel's juicy berry
character and low tannin levels plus the bright
acidity found in most Zin bottling help the wine
pair with many fairly intensely flavored dishes,
including beef stews, herbed roasted lamb and
red-sauced pasta. Less overt alcohol in the wine -
whether actual or perceived in a well-balanced
bottling - allows it to complement food that even
has some chile heat.
Baked
Penne with Meat & Mushroom Sauce combines all the
good stuff into a comforting, cohesive casserole.
Equal parts mild Italian sausage and lean ground
beef are browned then simmered together with onions
and mushrooms. Incorporating cremini mushrooms and
lean ground beef is a reduced-fat alternative to
using only sausage. The mushrooms also add depth and
an earthy note, and there's just enough fat and
richness from the sausage to mellow the tart
tomatoes.
I
normally prefer to cook with fresh herbs but in a
simmered sauce, dry herbs can suffice as long as
they are aromatic and haven't been sitting in the
spice cabinet for too long. A general rule however,
is to use one-third the amount of dry herb as fresh.
Basil has a great affinity for tomatoes as do
oregano and marjoram, which belong to the same herb
family.
Parmigiano-Reggiano adds salt and umami. I tested
two versions of this dish: sauced pasta garnished
with Parmesan and parsley; and a baked version
topped with Gruyere. Adding melted Gruyere to the
casserole enriches it, improving its match with
Zinfandel.
Another plus to the baked version: Leftovers can be
portioned into single servings, which can become a
convenient lunch or quick dinner for one. This could
be served for a special event like tomorrows Super
Bowl. Here is a chance to have two winners on Super
Bowl Sunday.
Baked Penne with Meat & Mushroom Sauce
Pasta is comforting and easy to prepare. Canned
tomatoes with basil already added are a convenience
so you don't need to purchase a bunch of basil; you
can also use plain tomatoes and add basil to the
sauce. Including mushrooms with the meat and sausage
adds depth and cuts out some fat and calories. (Use
more mushrooms instead of the meat for a vegetarian
version.)
1
to 2 teaspoons olive oil
1/2 pound mild Italian sausage
1/2 pound lean ground beef
Kosher salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup small diced yellow onion
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 pound cremini mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
2 tablespoons brandy or Amontillado sherry
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes with basil
1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano, or 1/4 to 1/3
dried
1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh marjoram, or 1
teaspoon dried
1 pound penne pasta
3/4 cup grated Parmesan
2 to 3 teaspoons minced flat-leaf parsley
(optional)
1 1/2 cups grated Gruyere
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.
Brown sausage and ground beef, season to taste. As
the meat browns, break up the large chunks into
smaller pieces. Push meat to the side of the skillet
then add onion. Cook until translucent, stirring
occasionally. The moisture from the onions will help
deglaze the skillet. Reduce heat to medium. Add
garlic and cook briefly until aromatic.
With meat still to the side, add mushrooms to the
onion-garlic mixture. Season with salt and pepper to
taste and cook until most of the moisture has
evaporated and mushrooms are tender, about 3-5
minutes. Stir together the meat and mushrooms. Add
brandy and cook about 30-45 seconds.
Add tomatoes, oregano and marjoram. Bring to a
simmer and reduce heat to low, stirring
occasionally. Simmer for 15-20 minutes or until
flavors have melded. Taste and adjust seasoning. The
sauce can be made ahead and refrigerated. Rewarm
before continuing with recipe.
Heat oven to 350 degrees F.
Spray a 9-by-13-inch casserole with cooking spray;
set aside.
Cook pasta in well-salted water according to package
directions; be careful not to overcook. Drain pasta,
mix with sauce, Parmesan and parsley, if using.
Taste and adjust seasoning.
Spoon into casserole dish, top with grated Gruyere
and bake for 10-15 minutes, until pasta is
thoroughly warm and cheese has melted.
Yields: 8-10 servings
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