Guest Columnist Les Kincaid
 

There are plenty of Merlots that cost less than any cabernet counterparts, simply because Merlot Cabernet isn't viewed as cool the Merlot was in the 1980s, "It's easy to pronounce, it's not very tannic, and it’s easy to drink. So it went crazy [back then]."

Quality Control The problem thereafter, unfortunately, was that growers rushed to plant merlot vines to meet demand, sometimes letting vineyards carry heavy crops that didn't fully ripen. "Mainstream producers planted merlot in the wrong places (terroir), which resulted in uninspired wines," "Bad merlot is like a date with a 'friend.' Pleasant, but it's leading nowhere."

There you have an unwanted present, widespread dissatisfaction with the variety. True, merlot remains one of the top-selling reds in America, but that's accounted for by the lower-quality wines at the bottom of the price spectrum. At the higher end, merlot is so out of fashion that "[merlot is] the least sold of all the red varietals" in typical retail store.

Brand Association However, I’ve found a way to convince both friends and regular consumers that merlot is worth another look: proof by association.

Like the Hourglass Merlot, if you know you like a winery's cabernet, its merlot probably isn't too shabby either. Along those lines, I like Buccella, which is a merlot masquerading as a cabernet. It's big and rich, much like Buccella's cabernet. So much so, that I’ve added the Buccella merlot to blind tastings of cabernets at dinner parties.

"Time after time, [it's] the first bottle empty," proving to discerning palates around the table that merlot can be every bit as good as the best cabernets.

When shopping around, another helpful strategy is to look for winemakers who specialize in the variety and ply their trade at several different wineries or labels. If they make good merlot under one label, odds are they do well with another. A prime example is winemaker Robert Foley. Along with his own wines, Foley also makes Switchback Ridge and several others (including Hourglass). He also helped develop the Paloma vineyard, another California producer known primarily for its merlot.

Unfortunately, this takes a little insider knowledge, but chances are your local retail wine shop knows who makes which wines. Other star California winemaker names to watch: Mark Aubert, Heidi Peterson Barrett, Paul Hobbs and Celia Welch, to name a few. Remember Wine Is Food.

Bordeaux Strategy You can take a similar approach to merlots from Bordeaux, take Beffa. Take La Fleur de Bouard, from the not-so-well-known sub-region Lalande-de-Pomerol (not the same spot as the very well-known Pomerol). That winery has the same owner as world-famous Château Angelus, whose wines from the 2005 vintage will cost you more than $200 per bottle. The La Fleur de Bouard from the same year? A mere $40.

One of the major differences between California and Bordeaux merlots, however, is that the California wines won't vary much from year to year (it's always warm and sunny there), while the quality of the Bordeaux wines can seesaw wildly. To learn more, "you have to go to your favorite retail wine shop," "hopefully they're good enough to recommend a few things." Also keep an eye on the critics' regularly updated vintage ratings, such as those of Jancis Robinson or possibly the Wine Spectator.

If you're really lucky, your wine purveyor might have a treat or two on hand, like the Grand-Pontet St.-Emilion 1998. Critics consider '98 a great year for Bordeaux's merlots. If you want to get a sense of how some of today's pricier wines will age, try an older vintage first. "It sometimes has a bit of a cheesy aroma to it and tends to be more toward red berry fruits from the black fruit [in flavor], and the tannins are very low after 10 years."

The experts are not of one mind, however. While I personally believe California merlot is an undiscovered deal, Beffa himself isn't convinced. "Sometimes California merlots are really wishy-washy," he says.

image "Some restaurant clients have built-in perceptions of merlot that may be less favorable than cabernet, but it is also incredibly satisfying when you get the 'light

-bulb moment' when people taste it, and truly get it." Try a couple of my recipes that I think you’ll enjoy with a good merlot.

Spicy Shrimp & Chorizo Kebabs

This super fast, super tasty marinade for the shrimp, flavored with caraway seeds and ancho powder, would also be delicious with chicken, pork tenderloin and any kind of steak.

2 large garlic cloves, thickly sliced

2 teaspoons sea salt

2 teaspoons caraway seeds

2 tablespoons pure chile powder, such as ancho

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 pounds large shrimp, shelled and deveined

8 small chorizo (about 1/2 pound total), sliced 1/2 inch thick

On a cutting board, using the flat side of a chef's knife, mash the garlic and salt to a coarse paste. Add the caraway seeds and finely chop them. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the chile powder and olive oil. Add the shrimp and toss to coat.

Meanwhile, bring a small saucepan of water to a boil. Add the chorizo and cook over high heat for 5 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Let cool slightly.

Tuck a chorizo slice in the crook of a shrimp and thread onto a skewer; the shrimp should be attached at both ends. Push it to the end of the skewer and repeat with 2 more shrimp and chorizo slices. Using more skewers, repeat with the remaining shrimp and chorizo.

Grill the kebabs over a hot fire, turning once or twice, until charred and the shrimp are cooked through, about 5 minutes.

Yield: 6 servings

This is a great side dish for the Shrimp & Chorizo Kebabs but can go with numerous other grilling recipes. Of course Merlot is a good choice too. Remember Wine Is Food.

Warm Potato Salad with Arugula

A farmer once said to me that if everyone who had enough space planted a garden, we could produce enough food to feed the entire country. I don’t know how that would work, but its fun to think about.”

3 pounds white potatoes, scrubbed

1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons grainy mustard (Creole mustard is good)

1 1/2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 small sweet onion, thinly sliced

5 ounces baby arugula (6 cups)

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Cut the potatoes into 1/2-inch wedges. Scatter the potato wedges on 2 large rimmed baking sheets, drizzle with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and toss until coated. Season with salt and pepper and roast for about 25 minutes, until browned and crisp.

In a small bowl, whisk the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil with the mustard and vinegar and season with salt and pepper. In a large bowl, toss the potatoes with the onion and arugula. Top with the dressing, toss again and serve right away.

Yield: 12 servings