Las Vegans Deborah and Phil Cimino, self-declared "regulars" at the Little Buddha Restaurant and Sushi Bar in the Palms Casino Resort, usually come in for the sushi. This time they ordered Shrimp Chow Mein and found it equally tasty. Asked why they keep coming back, Phil says, "We like the atmosphere, and we're lucky here at the Palms."

Little Buddha is a trendy restaurant with a surreal atmosphere enhanced by CDs (for sale at the foyer) of music compiled by their deejay in Buddha, their Paris parent. Beyond new age, it was akin to the soundtrack of "O," and the volume increased as the evening progressed. The decor, presided over by two looming gold Buddhas, is red and turquoise and hard-edged. Uneven overhead lights are not friendly to the faces of ladies sitting in booths, and at a center table, we found it impossible to read the menu in the dim light. We felt the artful presentation of the dishes was also lost in the darkness (which one of those satays is pork, beef or chicken?).

The sushi for which Little Buddha is known is exceptional: large slices in relation to the portion of rice served underneath. The signature sushi piece is the Little Buddha Roll: nagi (fresh sea eel), tempura shrimp, crab, avocado and bean sprouts, a generous plate for $12. Another good choice is the 6 Pieces and a California Roll. The Buddha Hot and Sour Soup was good, but the Sunomono, a cucumber salad with crab, contained only 3 teensy bites of crab. Little Buddha's desserts are notable: a lemon tart, liquid center chocolate cake, and mango or raspberry sorbet (3 scoops!).

We'd go back for: Macadamia-crusted mahi mahi, two tender filets per serving.